The Adriatic Kitchen Read online

  the

  ADRIATIC

  Kitchen

  About the author

  Barbara Unković was born in New Zealand, the daughter of a Croatian father and an English mother. She is D.H. Lawrence’s cousin. Barbara holds a Master of Creative Writing from the University of Auckland in New Zealand and is the recipient of more than 30 writing awards from the United Kingdom and the United States of America. Her published titles include: Adriatic Blue, Weeds in the Garden of Eden, A Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing, Moon Walking, Furry Blur and Naughty Noosa Meets the New Neighbours.

  For more detailed information about Barbara, please visit her website at www.barbaraunkovic.com.

  the

  ADRIATIC

  Kitchen

  Recipes inspired by the abundance of seasonal ingredients flourishing on the Croatian island of Korčula

  BARBARA UNKOVIĆ

  First published 2017

  Exisle Publishing Pty Ltd

  ‘Moonrising’, Narone Creek Road, Wollombi, NSW 2325, Australia

  P.O. Box 60–490, Titirangi, Auckland 0642, New Zealand

  www.exislepublishing.com

  Copyright © 2017 in text: Barbara Unković

  Copyright © in illustrations: Colin Unkovich

  Barbara Unković asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work.

  All rights reserved. Except for short extracts for the purpose of review, no part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, whether electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission from the publisher.

  A CiP record for this book is available from the National Library of Australia.

  ISBN 978-1-925335-36-1

  ePub ISBN 978-1-77559-327-0

  Designed by Big Cat Design

  Dedication

  This book is dedicated to my husband Denis, whom I would like to thank for his continued support, encouragement and tireless tending of our organic gardens and olive trees.

  Denis was a well-known chef and coffee roaster in the vibrant café and restaurant scene in Wellington, New Zealand, during the eighties and nineties. He owned a number of popular establishments including The Paté Shop, Turnbull House, Bowen Street Café and The Begonia Café.

  In 1999, we set up Café 51 in Wellington, followed by Costa Noosa Espresso in Queensland’s Noosa Heads, Australia, in 2003.

  By this time, Denis had moved on to become a highly skilled coffee roaster, while I took over supervision of the kitchen and menu design together with my duties as a chef. Although working together proved to be tough at times, we made a great team and I always admired Denis’ passion, drive and dedication.

  A special thank you also to my daughter Rebecca Fletcher for her invaluable assistance, and to my brother Colin Unkovich for creating the sensational artwork.

  Contents

  Introduction

  Spring

  Peasant Bread

  Croatian Sweet Easter Bread

  Focaccia Bread with Rocket (Arugula) and Cheese Filling

  Focaccia Bread with Parmesan Cheese and Thyme

  Roast Garlic

  Carrot and Mint Salad

  Octopus Salad

  Pan-Fried Anchovies

  Four Cheese Pizza with Sage and Capers

  Zucchini (Courgette) Fritters with Fresh Sage

  Lemon Marmalade

  Fritule

  Jam Parcels

  Crystallized Peel

  Summer

  Pan-Fried Eggplant (Aubergine)

  Baba Ghanoush

  Caramelized Onions

  Slow Roasted Tomatoes

  Roast Red Peppers

  Flamiche (Pizza Blanche)

  Risotto with Tomato, Basil and Lime

  Shrimp Risotto

  Black Risotto

  Scampi Buzara

  Fig Flan

  Glazed Figs

  Spiced Fig and Basil Jam

  Tomato Chutney

  Fresh Fig Chutney

  Fig and Rocket (Arugula) Salad

  Fresh Pasta with Summer Vegetables

  Fresh Fig Crumble

  Roast Zucchini (Courgette) with Lemon and Mint

  Lemon and Lavender Shortbread

  Zucchini (Courgette) Bread

  Biscotti

  Autumn

  Basil Pesto

  Olives in Brine

  Tapenade

  Wholegrain Olive and Rosemary Bread

  End of Summer Calzone

  Stuffed Peppers

  Spiced Lentils with Roast Cherry Tomatoes and Shallots

  Roast Tomato and Red Capsicum (Bell Pepper) Soup

  Leeks and Tomatoes in White Wine Sauce

  Olive and Lemon Chicken

  Roast Chicken with Pršut

  Roast Chicken with Pomegranate and Spinach

  Fisherman’s Stew

  Vanilla Horseshoe Biscuits

  Croatian Pepper Biscuits

  Bear’s Paws

  Walnut Squares

  Grape Jelly

  Pomegranate Jelly

  Rocket (Arugula) Salad with Pomegranate Dressing

  Ricotta Almond Tart

  Pancakes (Palačinke) with Chocolate Sauce and Walnuts

  Lemon and Almond Cake

  Apple and Cinnamon Cake

  Adriatic Almond Biscuits

  Winter

  Mushroom Soup

  Leek and Potato Soup

  Silverbeet (Chard) and Potatoes

  Roast Potatoes with Rosemary and Lemon

  Gnocchi with Meat Sauce

  Oven Baked Octopus

  Croatian Cod Stew

  Slavonian Pork Casserole

  Dalmatian Shepherd’s Lamb with Potatoes and Broad Beans

  Bowknots

  Walnut and Coffee Slice

  Limoncello

  Sugared Almonds

  Double Chocolate Fig Truffles

  Doughnuts Filled with Jam

  Christmas Fruit Cake

  Glossary and cooking notes

  Index

  About the artist

  Introduction

  On my first visit to the island of Korčula I was both astonished and delighted by the abundance of edible seasonal delights flourishing around me. This, combined with the natural beauty of the island, was largely responsible for me choosing to make the island my home.

  As I watched the days turn into months and the months evolve into seasons, in the village of Račišće, it seemed only natural to put together this recipe book.

  Croatian cuisine is particularly regional and the specialties differ greatly from the mountainous regions of the interior, to the Dalmatian Coast with its hundreds of islands. In Slavonia, in the north-east of Croatia, you will encounter kulen, a hot spicy salami; whereas if you visit Korčula, you will discover pršut, a dried smoked ham, and the renowned black risotto. During my time here I have been fortunate to taste many traditional Croatian foods and dishes.

  The influences in Croatian cuisine are varied and come from Italy, Turkey and Austria. Croatian people have lived off the fruit of the land and the sea for several thousands of years. They harvest and enjoy wild fruit, home-grown vegetables and wild herbs including sage and oregano. Asparagus, capers, mushrooms, olives, figs, pomegranates and blackberries also flourish freely here. The Adriatic Sea, which surrounds the island of Korčula, yields a boundless variety of seafood including anchovies, squid, octopus, mackerel and eel.

  Throughout Croatia, the main meal of the day is often a drawn-out affair commonly eaten in the middle of the day. The meal does not begin without a glass of aperitif or rakija, the fiery homemade spirits brewed by the locals. There are many different varieties, and o
n this island the more common ones are walnut or herb, and the most unusual one, blueberry. This long lunch is invariably accompanied by excellent local wine. Here on Korčula we are privileged to enjoy Grk, a dry white from the village of Lumbarda; Plavac, a rich, fragrant red from Blato, Žrnovo, and Pupnat; and Rukatac, an aromatic white from Čara and Smokvića. The combination of excellent wine and superb food ensures a marvellously tasty meal.

  This book is not intended to feature only Croatian recipes, but recipes inspired by the fantastic range of fresh, seasonal produce available in this small sleepy village with its lush vegetation, rich fertile soil and hot, endless summers.

  My recipes have been tried and tested many times and I pride myself on using only the finest, freshest, seasonal ingredients, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and freshly ground black or distinctive green pepper.

  It is my desire to share with you my passion for simple, creative cuisine inspired by the bountiful fresh fare of the beautiful Adriatic.

  Spring

  This is one of my favourite times of the year. On the Dalmatian Coast spring is usually short and sharp, stretching from March until May. As soon as winter departs the temperature often increases from 13°C (55°F) to 23°C (73°F) in the space of merely a few days. Spring arrives almost overnight and even though I know this is the case, I cannot seem to get used to it. At this time of year, the landscape is a profusion of beautiful flowers. One of the most spectacular sights is the pink and white blossoms on the numerous almond trees. They begin flowering in January. By March, when they reach their blooming peak, the trees are smothered with delicate, snow-like flowers. Fields are dotted with daffodils, wild snapdragons, bright red poppies and vibrant, purple sage. Ancient stone walls are covered with small wild flowers, white daisies and the tiniest bright pink, delicate cyclamen. The countless olive trees are smothered with small, white star-like flowers and in May, tiny vivid tangerine blossoms open on pomegranate stems against a backdrop of small yet bright green, glossy leaves. Hillsides no longer cultivated or maintained are ablaze with bright yellow broom. Spring is the time for preparing this rich fertile soil before planting a multitude of seeds and seedlings. At the end of winter, the landscape is at last awake and alive. It is a joy to behold the beauty of spring in this lush, green land.

  Peasant Bread

  ZVON, A YOUNG ENTHUSIASTIC CROATIAN CHEF FROM ZAGREB, SHARED THIS RECIPE WITH ME. IT WAS TRADITIONALLY BAKED UNDER A METAL OR EARTHENWARE PEKA OR BELL COVERED WITH BURNING EMBERS FROM A HOT, OPEN FIRE. TODAY, IT CAN BE BAKED SUCCESSFULLY IN A VERY HOT FAN-FORCED OVEN. TO PRODUCE A BOOST OF STEAM TO HELP ENSURE A STRONG, EVEN CRUST, POUR A CUP OF WATER INTO A DISH IN THE BOTTOM OF THE OVEN IMMEDIATELY BEFORE YOU CLOSE THE DOOR TO BEGIN BAKING THE LOAF.

  Ingredients:

  250 grams (about 2 cups) strong bread flour (high gluten content)

  250 grams (about 2 cups) plain flour

  2 teaspoons salt

  2 tablespoons olive oil

  8 grams (1 tablespoon) fresh yeast, crumbled

  2 teaspoons sugar

  1 tablespoon liquid honey

  500 millilitres (2 cups) tepid water, approximate

  • In a large bowl, sift together the two types of flour. Using a knife, make two indentations in the flour — one on each side. In the first indentation add the salt followed by the oil. In the second indentation, rub in the yeast using your fingertips. Add the sugar and honey to this indentation.

  • Add water to the yeast, honey combination. Mix, pulling in the surrounding flour.

  • Next, add water to the salt, oil combination and mix into the surrounding flour. Combine the two sections of flour, beginning with the yeast area first, and mix all the ingredients together with sufficient water to form a soft dough.

  • Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board (if you can knead without flour, so much the better). Knead for 10 minutes until it is smooth and elastic.

  • Shape the dough into a ball and coat the top with olive oil. Place in an oiled stainless steel bowl and cover with a baking cloth or clean tea towel. Leave it to rise for 30 minutes in a warm place.

  • Flatten the dough, reshape into a ball and leave it to rise again for 30 minutes. Repeat.

  • When shaping the dough into a ball for a third and final rise, ensure there is a spine or seam on the underside of the dough. This helps the loaf retain its shape during baking.

  • Place the dough on a lightly floured baking tray. Leave uncovered and let rise once more for 30 minutes.

  • Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).

  • At the end of last rise, oil the top of the dough thoroughly.

  • Bake for 20–25 minutes. The loaf should sound hollow when tapped. Remove from the oven, wrap in a clean tea towel and cool on a wire rack.

  Croatian Sweet Easter Bread

  KNOWN IN CROATIA AS SIRNICA, THIS EASTER TREAT IS SIMILAR TO THE TRADITIONAL ITALIAN SWEET BREAD, PANETTONE. THE ADDITION OF CITRUS ZEST, CRYSTALLIZED PEEL AND ALLSPICE MAKES THIS BREAD A SPECIAL INDULGENCE.

  Ingredients:

  1 teaspoon sugar

  60 millilitres (¼ cup) warm water

  8 grams (1 tablespoon) fresh yeast, crumbled

  185 millilitres (¾ cup) milk

  75 grams (5 tablespoons) butter

  500 grams (about 4 cups) plain flour, sifted

  100 grams (about ½ cup) sugar

  ½ teaspoon salt

  4 egg yolks, lightly beaten

  ¼ cup crystallized lemon peel (see recipe on page 31)

  zest from 2 lemons

  zest from 1 orange

  1 teaspoon ground allspice

  1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

  milk to brush

  limoncello to glaze (see recipe on page 102)

  vanilla sugar

  • In a small bowl, dissolve the teaspoon of sugar in the warm water. Sprinkle yeast over the water. Set aside in a warm place for 10 minutes until frothy.

  • Place milk and butter in a small saucepan. Stir over low heat until butter melts. Transfer to a large bowl and allow to cool until lukewarm. Stir in the frothy yeast mixture.

  • Using a wooden spoon, beat in 125 grams (about 1 cup) of sifted flour, followed by the sugar and salt. Cover with plastic food wrap and leave in a warm place until bubbly (about 20–25 minutes).

  • Mix the beaten egg yolks and the remaining sifted flour into the yeast mixture. Add the crystallized peel, lemon and orange zest, allspice and nutmeg. Mix to a soft dough using a knife. The dough must be very soft and almost difficult to handle. It may not be necessary to use all the flour.

  • Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board. Knead for 10 minutes until it is smooth and elastic.

  • Shape the dough into a ball and coat with olive oil. Place in an oiled bowl and cover with a baking cloth or clean tea towel. Leave to rise in a warm place for 70–90 minutes, until almost doubled in size.

  • Flatten the dough and knead for 1 minute on a lightly floured work surface. Shape into a ball, with the spine or seam on the underside. Cover with olive oil and place in a deep, oiled, 20 centimetre (8 inch) round cake tin. If the tin is too shallow, line the sides with baking paper extending it at least 12 centimetres (4–5 inches) above the rim of the tin.

  • Score the top of the dough with 3 long deep cuts intersecting at the centre. The cuts need to be quite deep (at least halfway through the loaf) to allow the dough to rise up from the centre to form the traditional crests of Sirnica. Make the cuts swiftly and cleanly. Do not drag or pull the dough.

  • Leave to rise in a warm place for 45 minutes.

  • Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F).

  • Brush the top of the dough with milk.

  • Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 170°C (340°F) and bake for 20–30 more minutes until bread sounds hollow when tapped and a metal skewer comes out clean when inserted into the middle.

  • Remove from the oven. Brush the top of the loaf generously with limoncello an
d sprinkle with vanilla sugar while hot. Leave in the tin for 10 minutes before transferring to a cooling rack.

  • Serve at room temperature.

  Focaccia Bread with Rocket (Arugula) and Cheese Filling

  UNTIL THE END OF WWII, ISTRIA, IN THE NORTH OF CROATIA, WAS ITALIAN TERRITORY. TODAY MANY OF THE INFLUENCES FROM ITALY CAN STILL BE FOUND THERE AND THIS RECIPE IS ONE OF THEM.

  Ingredients:

  400 grams (about 3 cups) plain flour

  8 grams (1 tablespoon) fresh yeast, crumbled

  1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra

  2 teaspoons salt

  tepid water to mix (see cooking notes on page 108)

  80 grams (¾ cup) parmesan or aged cheddar, grated

  large handful of rocket (arugula) leaves

  2 tablespoons thyme, finely chopped

  • Sift the flour into a large bowl. Rub in the yeast using your fingertips. Add olive oil and salt.

  • Add sufficient water and mix to a firm dough.

  • Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board. Knead for 10 minutes until it is smooth and elastic.

  • Shape the dough into a ball and place in a lightly floured bowl. Cover with a baking cloth or clean tea towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hour.

  • Remove the dough from the bowl and roll into a large rectangle. Drizzle one half with olive oil and sprinkle with the grated cheese and rocket (arugula). Drizzle again with olive oil.

  • Fold over half the dough to cover the cheese and rocket (arugula). Seal the edges by pinching with your thumb and first finger. Rub a small quantity of oil on top of the bread and sprinkle with chopped thyme. Place on a lightly floured baking tray and leave in a warm place to rise for 1 hour.

  • Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).

  • Bake for 18–20 minutes until light golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.

  • Serve drizzled with extra olive oil.